Ahhh, my first alone time not spent in my room at the homestay... Feels good. My life is so eventful, I'm not used to this! Let's see:
Last week we finished our BIA training and visited some beautiful BIA farms. The second one in particular was incredible - it's run by a construction worker's wife and mother, and it was the most gorgeous shamba I've ever seen. Anna, the wife, said she likes BIA because it uses less water, and wants to make the entire farm BIA. They have 30 raised beds already, and they've been doing this for 4 years! Today we started the real work. They mercifully split our group, so Laurie and I don't have to listen to Dori talk about herself ALL DAY LONG. We went with Irene, who's been here with GSC since January, and Sommi to the Langa village for follow-up training. The leader of the farmer's group there says they've worked with several other organizations that teach organic farming, but they like the BIA technique the best so they're sticking with it. Now if only we can convince them that compost really is important... The one advantage other orgs have is that they can give the farmers money to buy goats or supplies to build a water reservoir. GSC doesn't even give farmers the hand tools they need to finish a double-dug bed, so if they don't already have them, they can't do anything.
We're starting to realize that GSC is not the most organized or rational organization, and there are a lot of communication problems between the Arusha office and San Francisco. What's worse is that Sustainable Ag is the black sheep of GSC - the office is much more involved with its HIV/AIDS program. I don't even really understand why us volunteers are needed here. Laurie and I enjoyed our work today, but we felt pretty superfluous. Sommi could definitely done it better himself, but he was supposed to just be there as our translator. Why is it better to have a bunch of kids who don't speak Swahili and who just learned BIA a week ago come and teach these farmers when LITI Tengeru has a much more competent staff of their own? At least I am learning a lot about sustainable agriculture, and I'm getting lots of ideas for things I want to do when I'm back in the States. It's a lot easier to understand when I see it in action and dig the beds myself.
The weekend was awesome, though. We visited Lake Manyara park on Saturday (GSC's treat!) and saw some elephants really close up. Also, Manyara definitely had the coolest trees I've seen here so far - I saw baobabs! But safari trucks stop for animals, not trees, so I have to trust my memory for those. Parts of Manyara are lush and green because they are fed by underground springs, and those areas had thousands of white butterflies. They really filled the air - it felt positively magical. Sunday we went to Arusha National Park. We first did a three-hour hiking tour. This park was so beautiful; it was mostly rich green forest and other vegetation, unlike the other parks we've seen. There were fewer animals, but lots of breathtaking views and cool trees. And a waterfall that fed into a creek with black sand and blue stones - gorgeous. We saw SO MANY GIRAFFES, it was unbelievable. My group kept making fun of me because I took pictures of every giraffe, even after we'd seen a ton. It was so cool to see them from the ground and not from a Landrover. We also went on a short game drive afterwards and saw a massive flock of flamingoes, lots of baboons, and the elusive black collubus monkey. Flipping sweet!
That does it for safaris for me, though - these parks are insanely expensive. So no Serengeti, no Zanzibar, no canoeing around Mount Meru... I will just have to plan an ultimate vacation here when I'm rich to make up for everything I can't afford to see now.
On Friday I finally learned an important skill - laundry. Elijah had to show me how to do it by hand - they don't even have washboards here. Here's how our conversation went:
Elijah: So in the U.S., you are used to using machines to wash clothes?
Me: Yup. We also have machines to dry our clothes.
Elijah (with a shocked expression): You know, most Africans, if you tell them that, they will think you are spoiled.
Yeah, we are spoiled. I am staying with a family that's definitely middle class and better off than most people here, and they don't have running water, grow most of their own food, have their power cut twice a week, no computer, no CD player, stovetop that doesn't work, I could go on and on about the "necessities" that are completely unheard of here. Irene was telling us that at least in the U.S., even if you are dirt poor with the shittiest job ever, you can count on having power and hot running water. And that's all she'll need to be happy when she goes back to the States. Of course, she must be pretty happy here, because she just married a Tanzanian and is coming back here to live permanently once she works off her debt. Incredible!
Yesterday morning I realized I haven't listened to much music here, so I put on my headphones and had half an hour of Ted Leo. Immediately all the sadness that's been bothering me lately floated away. There ain't no blues a little Biomusicology can't cure. I guess it was just having SOMETHING familiar for once... It's hard sometimes being here.
Usually it's kindof chilly here, and really cloudy. I really miss hot weather. But today is a gorgeous clear day, which means I can see Kilimanjaro on my way to work. Oh, yeah. And on the road between work/home and Tengeru town, which goes through abandoned coffee plantations, I can see Kili through the trees, and it never fails to take my breath away. I want to climb it one day. Arne Naess said Western men want to climb mountains because they think they can conquer them... I don't remember why he said other kinds of men climb mountains. I know better - to the mountain, you are not even enough to be a nuisance. There is no conquering something that eternal. But I still want to climb it, just so I can be that much closer to the sky.
Current Music: whatever's stuck in my head right now